Jordan surprised us all with its inviting people, vast ruins
and stunning natural beauty. Any
concerns we had about how we would be received by the Jordanians were
alleviated right away. Everywhere we
went, people would say, “You are welcome here.
Welcome to Jordan!” Shopkeepers
invited us in to have tea and talk about their area’s history and waiters
befriended the boys, spoiling them with special drinks and ice cream.
Jordan has some incredible history and some of the most
spectacluar ruins in the world. The
impressive sites we saw right in the capital city of Amman were dwarfed the
next day by Jerash’s vast ancient Roman city that reached its peak in the 3rd
century AD. We were astounded by the
immense temples, columned streets and buildings that we speculate would rival
those in Athens and Rome.
With the images of Jerash still in our heads, we headed
south to the crown jewel of Jordan’s historical past, Petra. As advertised, it was even more impressive
than Jerash. Petra is a city that was literally
carved out of the red rock by the Nabataeans 2500 years ago in about
400BC. Petra, with its natural and
carved structures, is an explorer’s dream and the kids immediately began
scampering up rocks and looking in caves.
The stunning 1.2km narrow rock canyon leading into the village would be
well worth a visit on its own, but there is so much more. Palaces, temples, tombs and homes were
intricately carved out of the sandstone walls.
It would take at least 3 days to explore the sprawling city in any
depth. We walked ourselves ragged for a
day and a half and were only able to cover a fraction of the excavated ruins. And they estimate it is only about 20%
uncovered!
Another highlight of Jordan was our overnight in a Bedouin Camp at Wadi Rum Reserve, only about 20 km from the border with Saudi Arabia. Wadi Rum is Moab, Utah on steroids with its sculpted sandstone mountains and vast desert plains. We stayed in a rustic tented camp run by the local Bedouins. We sat on the floor in the communal dining tent while we drank tea and listened to our guides sing and play their local music. We climbed up to rock bridges, ran down sand dunes, visited Lawrence of Arabia’s old home and took an uncomfortable but mercifully short 30-minute camel ride.
To contrast our experience in the desert, we went to a posh
hot springs resort near the Dead Sea to pamper ourselves and get the grit off
of our bodies. It was a beautiful place but also probably the emptiest hotel we have ever been in. Definitely more staff than guests!
On our return from Israel/Palestine, we spend one night on
the shores of the Dead Sea and had a memorable swim/float/mud bath. Although we had heard that the salinity would
provide extra buoyancy, we were shocked to find that it was difficult to even
fully submerse yourself. You couldn’t
drown in the sea if you tried!
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